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Ask a seasoned, Passover-celebrating wine drinker what kosher wines they recommend. Expect an ironic laugh and a “life’s too short to drink kosher wines” response. In fact, the kosher wine category has improved dramatically since Manischewitz became the Passover table cliche. A major contributor to kosher wine’s bad reputation is boiling, so it can be mevushal (‘cooked’), and thus handled by non-Sabbath-observing Jews while remaining kosher; not surprisingly, boiling wine, as with boiling anything, kills the complex flavors. Innovations in technology over the last decade have helped. A new process called flash détente quickly heats and cools grapes after they’re...

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